(Editor’s note: Sometimes your most cherished memories are something that happened years ago. One of the Forum’s best mystery photo spotters remembers two trips he took more than 20 years ago to the south of France to visit the City of Arles. That town today has a population of 52,886 and continues to focus on tourists and agriculture as its major businesses. –eeb)
By George Graf
PALMYRA, Va. | When living years ago in Europe, I was an admirer of the artist Vincent van Gogh. Therefore, I could not pass up a road trip to Arles, France, where van Gogh produced a massive amount of fantastic work. According to the Vincent van Gogh Foundation, he lived here for 444 days and produced over 200 paintings, over 100 drawings and watercolors, and wrote some 200 letters. He was busy!
George Graf, 20 years ago
This is also where he cut off his left ear with a razor while suffering from severe depression. Another account says his artist friend Gauguin came to stay with him in Arles and the two men worked together for almost two months. However, tensions developed and on December 23, 1888, in a fit of dementia or possibly a violent argument, van Gogh threatened his friend with a knife before turning it on himself and mutilating his earlobe. After which, he could later recall nothing about the event.
Van Gogh’s living in Arles was accidental. Before Arles, van Gogh was living in Paris and became weary of the cold so he grabbed a train to Marseille. Because of some difficulty, the train stopped in Arles on the way to Marseille and van Gogh exited the train presumably to stretch his legs, and there and then he fell in love with Arles and stayed. In 1888, he wrote a letter to his brother Theo who was a Dutch art dealer and told him “Ideas for work are coming in abundance…I am going like a painting-locomotive”. But the frantic pace later led to his mental meltdown.
The color yellow became the hallmark of his work during his time in Arles. Van Gogh rented space in a yellow house, but it was unfortunately bombed in 1944 during World War II and later demolished.
Arles street
I visited Arles twice. I found this gem of a city steeped in Roman history, while quiet and intriguing. The very narrow streets, however, challenged my Volvo driving skills to the max.
The imposing Roman amphitheater in the middle of town is circled by a plethora of cafes, brasseries and outdoor vendors selling colorful wares. The amphitheater was constructed in 90 A.D. with over 120 arches. For four centuries it was the site of bloody gladiator battles, chariot races and theater performances. Our large arenas in the USA don’t seem to last longer than a few decades before being demolished for a new and more spectacular version.
After the fall of the Roman Empire in the fifth century, the amphitheater was converted into a fortress, encircling houses and chapels. Today, the amphitheater is used for traditional bullfighting, and plays and concerts are also held here. The Arles Amphitheater is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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